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How to SKYWAY Tuff Wheel OGK GT PERFORMER BMX Mags Cleaning Restoration Whoa, may want to wait a second there, guys. I am in the process of figuring out a process of cleaning/restoring tuff and other mag wheels. I have tried everything I have read on the internet and gotten mixed results. Problems: 20+ years of grime, sometimes spray paint, brake glazing, usually sun oxidation and finally, warpage. Tuff wheels are made of nylon and are hydroscopic, meaning they will absorb water over time. There have been several posts portending that this will actually strengthen the material over time, but I spoke with a nylon engineer who said water absorption will actually make nylon more compliant over time (read: "softer"). There are stories of pro guys (who ride ALL the time) who can actually feel the difference between wheels that are virginal versus wheels that have been soaked (whether hot or cold bath, or power washed repetitively). I have done quite a bit of water blasting and haven't experienced a noticable difference. The myth of freezing your tuff wheels to fix warpage is just that--a myth. So where does that leave us? For grime: Pressure washing: good results for the grime...but needs a chemical to attack the tough stuff. Chemical strip (and lots of scrubbing): nylon is extremely chemical resistant and I have tried stuff as caustic as bleach with no visible damage occuring. Am told--but haven't tried--that even goof-off won't hurt them. Any brave ones out there? I think simple green works pretty great. Oven cleaner? Don't know. I think it's another myth. Trying to find a plastic-safe "stripper". *As anyone who has gone this far probably knows, chemicals and pressurized water don't touch the remainder of the problems...must use more drastic methods. For spray paint, brake glazing, and oxidation: Sanding (sand paper or 3m Scotchbrite pad): Talk about labor intensive!!! I wore a hole in my thumb with this process. No joke. But this DOES WORK. Look for around a 220 grit paper or a "heavy duty" scotchbrite pad--I have used both dry or wet with = results. Anything more course is going to start damaging the nylon. Why? Because nylon has little strands encapsulated in the nylon itself, but we can't see them because when nylon is formed, it naturally creates a barrier layer to the strands while in the mold I.E. the material naturally floats to the surface and makes a very smooth surface layer protecting the strands below. If we sand this layer away too much, we expose the strands and they make the wheel look course from then on in that work area. Believe me, I have done this. The challenge is to be able to remove the spray paint, glazing, and oxidation without harming the underlying material. This can be done safely as long as you are careful. Be attentive to your surface and if you start to see any deep scratches form, that's because you just began sanding into a strand. STOP THERE. Hand sanding to me is just for spot work, such as the braking surface where some unthinker used the wrong color brake pads. In fact, you MUST HAND SAND THE RUBBER OFF THE NYLON before using the next process--media blasting--or the rubber will hold heat and let the media burn the plastic. Believe me, I have done this. You can use coarser grades of paper, but watch that surface and be careful--you risk sanding into strands and creating weird looking scratch marks that won't go away. The results you get are directly related to your attentiveness to your work. Media blasting: This is by far my favorite since it is the best bang for the buck (best results for time spent)--how much this costs you will depend on the mood your neighborhood blasting guy is in. I have been quoted anything from $50 an hour up to $150!!! I have tried super fine garnet (150 grit sand), 100 grit sand (a standard size at powdercoating places), and glass bead. ALL WORK. There is negligible difference between the way the different media leaves the resultant surface--all clean the wheel, the more aggressive media (100 grit) just cleans it faster. The problem is, they all leave the wheel "porous looking". If you look at skin up close, it looks porous. (Yes, even on supermodels). That's the way these medias leave the wheel. As opposed to brand new slick smooth plastic. The wheels look great as they have gotten all of their color back and look clean, but this porous surface now ATTRACTS dirt, grease, you name it. As soon as you touch the wheel with it, it is "there". *NOTE: if you have GT PERFORMER WHEELS MADE BY OGK: OGK used a different concoction of nylon. Due to this, [uSING ANY OF THE ABOVE LISTED MEDIA], ANY BLASTING ATTEMPTED WILL BURN THE WHEEL. Once again, believe me, I have done this. ANY OF THE MEDIAS I HAVE USED THUS FAR CREATE HEAT. Therefore, if there is any brake glazing left on a tuff wheel, these medias will burn the plastic. I am going to try plastic and walnut shell medias next, so I will post the results when I know something. This porous surface now denotes the need for a coating of some kind. I am in the midst of coming up with just the right chemical to act as a sealant for these wheels. I have heard of people trying clear coat paint, but I imagine it looks somewhat gummy and makes the wheel definately unoriginal looking--and if applied to the braking surface, it will strip off as the pads wear and BURN IN to the plastic. (Not a good thing). I have found a proprietary chemical that bonds to nylon, is low gloss, and acts as a sealant. I envision spraying only the center section and leaving the braking surface bare. It is agreed that sanding the braking surface actually improves braking action--just don't make the mistake of using the wrong color pads after sanding or the wheels will be stained forever. Will try it in the next few days. If good results, I may decide to start restoring wheels for people. They'll look new AND brake better. As for Warpage, I don't have a lot of ideas. --Baking your rides like mom's chocolate chip cookies probably isn't a good one. Have considered soaking in extremely hot water--and the nylon engineer said it may work--but be careful, don't do it for more than half an hour or you'll be riding some waterlogged (heavy) sponge sports when you're done. That is all. Dustin Gummels